The Best Soup Ever
By Cynthia Furey • Photography By Michael Rutt
Living in the multicultural hotbed that is Orange County, you’ve probably slurped your way through a bowl of the popular, inexpensive Vietnamese dish called “pho.” But even pho connoisseurs may not know about the rich history and medicinal qualities of its long-simmered broth. Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is at first a minimalist dish: It arrives at your table consisting of nothing more than flat rice noodles, broth, and meat, sometimes with onions and cilantro bits floating in the bowl. It looks like a basic soup. But this is where the fun begins. The restaurant supplies you with an arsenal of ingredients—hoisin, hot sauce, soy sauce, lime, bean sprouts, basil, chili peppers, and other ingredients to help tailor the pho to your liking. Take your blank canvas of a bowl and morph it into something completely different from when it arrived, or, if you’re a purist, eat your pho in its minimalist state. The choice is yours. Today, the Garden Grove and Westminster area known as Little Saigon has an abundance of pho houses, all offering inexpensive bowls of its specialty (most pho offerings are within the $5 to $7 range). Driving down Bolsa Avenue for example, you have your pick of dozens of pho restaurants, ranging from the high-end, white-tablecloth establishments to more modest noodle houses. We’ve crisscrossed Little Saigon and other phorich areas in search of the perfect, steaming bowl. We’ve also ordered our “What the Pho?” and “Pho Shizzle” T-shirts from www.phofever.com.
Must-try pho houses
THREE GRANDE DAMESPHO FAQ
How’d pho get to Orange County?
Tracing pho’s roots is like following a road map through Vietnam, from north to south. An early version can be attributed to southern China (which borders northern Vietnam) and a heavy, gravy-like soup made with wheat noodles and beef. When pho crossed the China-Vietnam border, it became more broth-like and was made with rice noodles instead of wheat. The French helped create the dish by introducing beef to Vietnam in the mid-1800s, making possible the pho that we know today. “Beef became a fascination for the Vietnamese, who attributed it to the French, or an aristocratic society, because it was expensive,” says Mai Pham, who is an author, Vietnamese food expert, and owner of Lemon Grass restaurant in Sacramento. “So, when there was a dish that came out that used a beef product that people could afford, they became in love with the dish.” In 1954, pho traveled to Saigon. The Vietnam War had begun, and many Vietnamese were fleeing the north to take refuge in the south. “Prior to that [year], we do know that pho did not exist in Saigon,” Pham says. Post-war refugees who settled in parts of America, including Garden Grove and Westminster, brought the dish with them.
Brodard Chateau
France’s influence on Vietnamese cuisine is evident at the Brodard Chateau. Each bowl of pho (starting at $5.95 for lunch) is served with strips of toasted baguettes topped with pesto. Chef and owner Chau Dang reveals that her beef broth includes the addition of oxtail, which makes the broth sweeter than most. Dark, handsome woods accent this two-story restaurant, where on the first floor booths and tables hug a classy bar area. Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 9100 Trask Ave., Garden Grove. 714-899- 8273.
www.brodard.net.
Favori
The romantic Favori restaurant is known for its broiled catfish, and French and Vietnamese offerings. But dig into the menu a bit, and you’ll find the restaurant also offers a good bowl of pho. A blue awning welcomes diners to the restaurant, which is perhaps the star of this list: Favori has been reviewed by countless media outlets. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. 3502 W. First St., Santa Ana. 714- 531-6838.
www.favorirestaurant.com.
S Vietnamese
Fine Dining S Vietnamese Fine Dining is a whitetablecloth establishment just across the parking lot from Westminster Mall. The restaurant is named after the curvy “S” shape that Vietnam resembles on a map, and its entranceway makes you feel like you’ve suddenly set foot in a modern Asian palace. Pho is served in full- or half-orders. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Thursday; dinner: 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. Weekends: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. 545 Westminster Mall Drive, Westminster. 714-898-5092.
www.sfinedining.com.
MID-RANGE PHO HOUSESPHO FAQ
Do I need to know pho lingo?
In your quest for pho, you might encounter a menu that doesn’t offer English translations. Don’t worry, here’s a handy glossary made for situations like this.
Phở Bò: Traditional Vietnamese beef noodle soup Phở Gà: Variation of phở made with chicken instead of beef
Tái: Paper-thin slices of rare steak
Nạm: Sliced beef flank
Chín Nạc: Sliced beef brisket
Gân: Beef tendon
Bò Viên: Chewy, often homemade beef meatballs
Sách: Tripe
Hoa Binh
Owner Sam Diep says the 2-year-old restaurant specializes in pho, with bowls ranging from $4.95 to $5.75. The restaurant is revamping its menu to be more universal to diners, with added photos of menu offerings so those not familiar with Vietnamese cuisine will have an easier time ordering. Hours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.Wednesday through Monday. Closed Tuesday. 14472 Brookhurst St., Garden Grove. 714-531-3088.
Pho Thang Long
Big and bold must be the motto at Pho Thang Long. Though it’s located in a ho-hum strip mall, the restaurant stands out as one of the liveliest on our list. Bright orange walls, high ceilings, and a wall-sized green waterfall glitters in the background as diners enjoy larger-than-average bowls of pho. Outside, black awnings frame the tops of large windows, which flank Pho Thang Long’s massive glass door. At night, Pho Thanh Long’s interior glow is evenmore eye-catching. Cash only. Hours: 9 to 3 a.m. daily. 15579 Brookhurst St.,Westminster. 714-839-4955.
Quan Hop
Quan Hop is a bright and sunny café, complete with Asian-inspired knickknacks, such as water fountains and bamboo accents. A clean, light wood floor pulls the restaurant’s décor together. Waiters carefully serve bowls of pho that are filled to the brim with a deep, rich broth. Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 15640 Brookhurst St.,Westminster. 714-689-0555.
PHO FAQ
Why is pho healthy?
Though pho is more common as a lunch or dinner item in the United States, it’s a common breakfast tradition in Vietnam, says registered dietician and California State University, Long Beach professor Gail Frank. “The richness of a small amount of fat, richness of the electrolytes, the sodium, potassium, and chloride, and the noodle itself, the carbohydrate, is sustaining,” Frank says. “It provides the variety of nutrients that the body would need.” Both here and in Vietnam, broth-based soups are popular during cold weather and with those under the weather. “Soup as a rule is medicinal because it has the electrolytes,” Frank says. By eating comfort soups such as pho, Frank says, we’re replenishing key nutrients, which help the body heal.
Pho houses outside Little Saigon
Bamboo Bistro
Bamboo Bistro is owned by Chau Dang, the woman behind Brodard and Brodard Chateau restaurants. The Thai-Vietnamese fusion restaurant offers traditional pho dishes, as well as an interesting, Thai-style pho with seafood and a spicy broth. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. 2600 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. 949-720-1289.
Bodhi Tree Café
Owner Huong Pham is behind the all-vegetarian menu, which includes vegan versions of beef and chicken pho. Soy meats are used as substitutes, and clear vegetable stocks are made by slow simmering ingredients such as carrots and daikon. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. 501 Main St., Huntington Beach. 714-969-9500.
Mitasie 3
You’ll find family-style dishes prepared from family recipes at Mitasie 3, which has been open since 2005. Pho dishes are free of monosodium glutamate and full of fresh ingredients. Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. 7636 Edinger Ave., Huntington Beach. 714-847-5262.
Thanh Restaurant
This clean, family-owned restaurant boasts high ceilings and a modern décor. The menu offers nine pho dishes that range in price from $5.95 to $8.95. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. 15315 Culver Drive, Irvine. 949-559-7788.
What’s the easiest pho to make?
Pho Ga, or chicken pho, is easier than beef pho because the broth takes less time to cook. Brodard Chateau owner Chau Dang simplif ied the following Pho Ga recipe so you can have restaurant-style pho at home. You will need a 12-quart stockpot, a large pot, and a vertical-handled strainer.
Yields 8 servings PHO FAQ
What’s that radioactive red stuff? 
One of the most ubiquitous of pho sidekicks is Sriracha hot sauce, a fiery red sauce that isn’t for the faint of tongue. Each bottle contains a potent mix of ground chili peppers, garlic, and vinegar (among other ingredients)—just a few drops will perk up any muted bowl of pho. Sriracha’s greencapped bottle and rooster-emblazoned label can be found on the tables at many Vietnamese restaurants. Its parent company, the Rosemead-based Huy Fong Foods Inc., was founded by immigrant entrepreneur David Tran in the early 1980s. “It’s like using ketchup with french fries; steak sauce with steak,” says William Tran, a company executive and David Tran’s son. “[Pho and Sriracha] just naturally go together.”
Soup ingredients
2 4-inch pieces fresh ginger, unpeeled
1 pound yellow onions, unpeeled
5 quarts water
5 pounds fresh chicken bones
1 chicken, about 5 pounds, cleaned
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sugar, to taste
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
4 whole cloves
2 pounds small fresh flat rice noodles
1 yellow onion, sliced paper-thin
4 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro, leafy tops only
Black pepper, to taste
Garnishes
3 cups bean sprouts (about 1/2 pound)
10 to 12 sprigs Thai basil
2 or 3 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced
2 or 3 limes, cut into wedges
Chili and hoison sauce
To make broth PHO FAQ Can I bring Little Saigon home?
Longtime Little Saigon resident Ann Le has compiled her family’s traditional Vietnamese recipes such as pho, spring rolls, and curry in her book “The Little Saigon Cookbook” (Globe Pequot, $15.95, available at
www.amazon.com). An added bonus: Le’s book also acts as a helpful introduction to Vietnamese history and Little Saigon landmarks, with information sandwiched between recipes.
Place unpeeled ginger and onions on a small baking sheet, and place the baking sheet on the oven’s top rack. Broil for 15 minutes, or until char red. Turn over onions and ginger, and repeat. When both sides are charred, take the rack out of the oven and cool. Rinse and rub the blackened skin off of the onion and ginger with a small knife. In a 12-quart stockpot, add cold water and bring to a boil. Add chicken bones, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to release the impurities. Drain the liquid, and rinse the bones of any remaining residue (this is important for a clear broth). Clean the stockpot, and return the bones to the pot. Pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then add the whole chicken. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for 30 minutes, periodically skimming the broth’s surface of impurities. When the whole chicken is fully cooked, remove from the pot and chill enough to be handled. To the stockpot, add the char red onions, ginger, salt, fish sauce, sugar, coriander seeds, and cloves. Simmer for another 20 minutes. The broth is ready at this point, but you may simmer longer (up to 4 hours) for a deeper flavor. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve. Discard chicken bones. Skim as much fat from the top of the broth as you like. Taste the broth, and adjust the flavor with additional salt, fish sauce, and sugar, if necessary. Use a knife to remove each breast half and legs. Set aside to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
To assemble bowls
Cut the refrigerated cooked chicken into slices about 1/4-inch thick, cutting the meat off the bone and set aside. Bring the strained broth to a simmer over medium heat. Meanwhile, fill an additional large pot of water and bring to a boil. With both pots on the stove, arrange a garnish plate with bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeño peppers, and lime wedges. Place rice noodles on a vertical-handled strainer and dunk into boiling water for 15 to 20 seconds, or until soft. Portion out noodles into serving-sized bowls. Top noodles with chicken, slices of yellow onion, scallions, and cilantro. Ladle about 2 cups of broth into each bowl. Top with cilantro and pepper, and serve immediately with garnish plate.